Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
